Saison – San Francisco

Restaurant Saison har tre stjärnor i Guide Michelin och ligger i skrivande stund på plats nr 27 på listan över The World’s Best Restaurants. Saison har varit en framgångssaga, som faktiskt startade som en popup-krog för sju år sedan. Krögaren Joshua Skenes jobbar enligt konceptet råvaror i säsong, något vi känner igen från de flesta framgångsrika restauranger idag som Noma, Fäviken Magasinet, Daniel Berlin, Hedone och Oaxen Slip. Saison har sin egna trädgård och Skenes är en hängiven jägare, två viktiga komponenter i köket på Saison.

Hur kom det sig att jag valde just Saison? Det finns ett flertal prisade krogar i omgivningarna som Manresa, French Laundry, Benu och Atelier Crenn men eftersom det här främst var en semesterresa hade jag bara tid att besöka en, så jag gjorde helt enkelt en undersökning bland mina erfarna matälskande vänner och kolleger runt om i världen och slutligen föll valet den här gången på Saison. Och som uni-fantast har jag dessutom länge suktat efter det lilla grillade brödet som dekoreras rikligt med uni. Vid mitt besök kom sjöborren från Hokkaido, vilket gjorde mig extra nöjd. Under min resa till Kalifornien provade jag även uni från Santa Barbara, vilken också är härlig – den har både krämighet och sötma som den japanska men är en mycket mildare variant. Vilken uni man föredrar är förstås en smaksak, men jag älskar den från Hokkaido – då den alltid har en väldig ren, fin och tydlig sötma.

Den lilla munsbiten med grillat bröd gjorde mig inte besviken – den går rätt upp på min topp-lista över bästa rätter någonsin, precis som den stora portionen caviar med bröd.

In english: Restaurant Saison has three stars in Guide Michelin and has achieved the place of no 27 at The World’s 50 Best Restaurant list. Saison has been a success, that actually started as a weekend pop up seven years ago. Chef owner Joshua Skenes work with ingredients in Saison, a koncept we know of from many successful restaurants as Noma, Fäviken Magasinet, Daniel Berlin, Hedone and Oaxen Slip. Saison has it’s own garden and chef Skenes is a devoted hunter, two important components in the kitchen.

Why did I go to Saison? There are many praised restaurants in the area like Manresa, French Laundry, Benu och Atelier Crenn, but since this was mostly a family trip I only had time to visit one fine dining restaurant. I did a survey amongst my food loving friends an colleagues and ultimately I chose Saison. And as a fan of uni I have been tempted to try their uni dish with grilled bread for a very long time. When I visited Saison the uni came from Hokkaido in Japan, and that made me truly happy. During my trip to California I also tried uni from Santa Barbara, which I found to be a pleasant experience – it had a the same lovely creaminess and sweetness as the japanese but with not as intense flavours. Which uni you prefer is of course a matter of taste, but I love the one from Hokkaido since it possessed a pure flavour and pleasantly strong and delicate sweetness.

The small nibble of uni and bread didn’t disappoint me – it takes a place on my toplist of best dishes ever, just like the big spoon of caviar accompanied with delicious bread.

Starting the evening with a glass of Billecart-Salmon Brut 1999.
Starting the evening with a glass of Billecart-Salmon Brut 1999.
Infusion with herbs from the garden.
Infusion with herbs from the garden.
Saison reserve caviar - golden oscietra cured with their own smoked salt.
Saison reserve caviar – golden oscietra cured with their own smoked salt.
The caviar is served with eggs from their farm with petaluma cheese and bread grilled in the fire and glazed with smoked pork. Just amazing!
The caviar is served with eggs from their farm with petaluma cheese and bread grilled in the fire and glazed with smoked pork. Just amazing!
Raw preparation of lobster tail with a wonderful sweetness and the lobster claws is served gently grilled. The small dishes is served with condiments like citrus marigold, citronett infused with the shell of the lobster, flowers from our farm, salt and radish seasoned with jalapeño.
Raw preparation of lobster tail with a wonderful sweetness and the lobster claws is served gently grilled. The small dishes is served with condiments like citrus marigold, citronett infused with the shell of the lobster, flowers from our farm, salt and radish seasoned with jalapeño.
Lobster claws.
Lobster claws.
Salt and citronette.
Salt and citronette.
Sea urchin and grilled bread soaked in a sauce of grilled bread.
Sea urchin and grilled bread soaked in a sauce of grilled bread. Truly delicious!
Rice in a grilled rice broth and pickles. Rice from Sacramento river delta topped with a bouillon of grilled rice. Served with a variety of fermented and pickled condiments from the farm. Red abalone from Monterey thats been roasted over the ambers of the fire, sauce of the abalones liver and capers. Local trout, roe and crispy skinn.
Rice in a grilled rice broth and pickles. Rice from Sacramento river delta topped with a bouillon of grilled rice.
Served with a variety of fermented and pickled condiments from the farm. Red abalone from Monterey thats been roasted over the ambers of the fire, sauce of the abalones liver and caper. Local trout, roe and crispy skinn.
Abalone from Monterey.
Abalone from Monterey served in seaweed.
Radish - poached, grilled, and raw topped with clarifyed butter.
Radish – poached, grilled, and raw topped with clarifyed butter.
Red sea cucumber.
Red sea cucumber.
Black cod grilled over the embers sauce of yoghurt and citrus leaves.
Black cod grilled over the embers sauce of yoghurt and citrus leaves.
Under all those beautiful flowers hides a tartar of mountain ram with it's grilled fat. I found the taste of the ram quite similar to lamb.
Under all those beautiful flowers hides a tartar of mountain ram with it’s grilled fat. I found the taste of the ram quite similar to lamb.
Beef aged at the restaurant. Ribeye and heartbread, braised breast of veal and a hot sauce made of fermented chili from the garden.
Beef aged at the restaurant. Ribeye and heartbread, braised breast of veal and a hot sauce made of fermented chili from the garden.
A boullion made of the grilled bones - a bowl full of umami.
A boullion made of the grilled bones – a bowl full of umami.
For dessert: Ice cream & caramel, cooked in the fireplace. Orange sorbet and wild strawberries glaced in their own juices and wiped cream.
For dessert: Ice cream & caramel, cooked in the fireplace. Orange sorbet and wild strawberries glaced in their own juices and wiped cream.
Orange sorbet.
Orange sorbet.
Wild strawberries.
Wild strawberries.
The dinner ends as it started - with some tea.
The dinner ends as it started – with some tea.

 

Matthew Kammerer, one of two sous chefs at Saison.
Matthew Kammerer, one of two sous chefs at Saison.
Sous chef Scott Clark and head sommelier Max Coane.
Sous chef Scott Clark and head sommelier Max Coane.
Bevan Bunch, general manager.
Bevan Bunch, general manager.

I asked the head sommelier Max for his recommendations and the wine pairing, as well as the service, was excellent.
Wines of the evening:
– Sake Maboroshi Junmai Ginjo
– Chassagne Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru 2014, Vincent Morey & Sophie
– Presqu’ile Pinot Noir 2013
– Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Rauenthaler Baiken Riesling Auslese 2005

Chef Skenes and I seem to have the same taste in music. During the evening I got to listen to for example Madonna, Duran Duran, Dire Straits, AHA och Martika. Made me feel I’m back in the 80’s again.

http://www.saisonsf.com

Annonser

Kommentera

Fyll i dina uppgifter nedan eller klicka på en ikon för att logga in:

WordPress.com Logo

Du kommenterar med ditt WordPress.com-konto. Logga ut /  Ändra )

Google+-foto

Du kommenterar med ditt Google+-konto. Logga ut /  Ändra )

Twitter-bild

Du kommenterar med ditt Twitter-konto. Logga ut /  Ändra )

Facebook-foto

Du kommenterar med ditt Facebook-konto. Logga ut /  Ändra )

w

Ansluter till %s